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These articles will help you in
your goal to build a stronger long lasting bond with your
dog. Make sure your dog is healthy for life, mentally as
well as physically.
All articles
listed on this site are sole propriety of Crazy K9s Dog
Training, unless otherwise specified. |
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Dog Sports for
Fun & Fitness
(as seen in Bay Woof Times, August 2007 issue) |
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DOG SPORTS OFFER FUN, FITNESS, AND MORE
By Ursula Kinley
There has
been a boom in canine sports in recent years. On any given
weekend, dog sport competitions take place all across the
Bay Area, and they draw a large following of eager
spectators and competitors with dogs, crates, and sun
canopies in tow.
Many dog
owners are learning that the daily romp at the dog park is
not the only way to get some meaningful exercise with their
canine companions. And in addition to the physical health
benefits, participating in a dog sport strengthens your bond
with your dog by giving you something active, challenging,
and fun to do together.
Just like
with humans, dogs who are athletic tend to be more healthy
and fit than their sedentary counterparts. Regular physical
activity tones muscles, builds stronger bones, improves
circulation, and helps keep a dog physically healthier
overall.
But it’s not
just your dog’s body that benefits from participation in a
dog sport – it also has a positive impact on her behavior by
providing mental stimulation and a social outlet. Many
behavior issues, such as chewing and digging, stem from
inadequate exercise. Being active in a sport gives your dog
the opportunity to work her body and mind, and many
hyperactive pups have become more compatible with the family
household by running off some energy in such activities.
Being active
in dog sports can also increase your dog’s confidence and
overall attitude. When you are training her in a sport, you
give her the knowledge she needs to succeed in a desired
task or behavior. Each time your dog is successful and
receives a reward from you for her actions (positive
reinforcement), her confidence increases.
To help your
dog maintain focus on you during training, figure out which
type of reward works best for her. Some of the most common
rewards are treats, a game of tug, tossing a favorite toy,
and praise from you – or any combination of these. Your job
as trainer is to keep the activity consistently fun and
positive.
While your
dog is training in his new sport and gaining confidence, she
will also learn plenty of social skills, like staying
focused on you despite the distractions of other dogs,
humans, and new environments. Learning such skills will help
your dog in everyday situations as well.
My border
collie, Gunner, is a rescue who came with many phobias,
including an aversion to loud engines. At the dog park, the
poor guy would run for cover whenever a motorcycle went by.
After several months, I noticed that he wasn’t plagued by
this phobia while participating in Flyball. His improved
focus on our training helped me desensitize his reaction in
other situations as well, and today he no longer has a fear
of engine noises.
One of the
most rewarding sides of dog sports for many people,
including me, is the fun and active environment where the
bond between you and your dog can flourish. The more you
interact with your dog the more you will both get out of
your relationship. No matter what sport you are involved in
– from agility to weight pull – you and your dog are a team.
Each training session and every competition improves your
trust in and response to each other. Positive interaction
through play and training, combined with clear
communication, helps forge a strong, long-lasting bond
between you and your dog.
You don’t
have to compete to enjoy and benefit from dog sports. Simply
taking a sports training class can be very rewarding for you
and your dog. There are several trainers in the Bay Area who
provide Agility, Flyball, Dock Diving, and other dog sport
classes without the pressures of a competitive training
regimen. In a class environment, you will learn from the
experience of your trainer and other students, enjoy a lot
of support and comeraderie, and make new friends along the
way.
THE GAMES
No matter what type of dogs you have – from miniatures to
herding breeds – chances are they love to run, jump, fetch,
or do tricks. Figure out what your dog naturally enjoys and
choose a sport that best fits his personality. Here are some
of the options in and around the Bay Area.
Agility
Agility is one of the top dog performance sports in the
world. A handler directs a dog through an obstacle course
using only voice direction and body signals and is scored
for both time and accuracy. The obstacle course includes
jumps, tunnels, tire jumps, weave poles, teeter totters,
artdog walks, and A-frames.
Disc Dog
In disc dog competitions, teams of one human and one dog
compete in a variety of events, including distance catching
and Freestyle, short routines choreographed to music with
multiple discs in play.
Dock Jumping
Dock jumping is a simple yet exciting sport in which dogs
jump as far as they can into a body of water after sprinting
down a 40-foot dock that stands two feet above the surface.
Handlers toss a toy into the air for incentive and their
dogs leap out over the water in hopes of catching it.
Officials use a specialized camera to measure the jumps.
Flyball
In Flyball, two teams of four dogs each race in relay style
through a course consisting of four hurdles and a
spring-loaded box that shoots out a tennis ball. Each dog
navigates the hurdles then catches the tennis ball before
running back over the hurdles to its human handler. As one
dog returns to the starting line, the next one leaves. The
first team to have all four dogs run without errors wins the
heat.
Herding
This sport is geared towards breeds that have the natural
instinct to round up any type of livestock, from geese to
cattle. Dog and handler work together to maneuver the
livestock through a course of gates and pens. Handlers work
their dogs from a distance with an assortment of whistles,
hand signals, and voice commands. The dogs are scored on
their ability to control the livestock and on how well they
respond to their handler’s direction.
Musical Freestyle
This fun sport is a mixture of obedience, tricks, and dance
moves that allows for creative interaction between dogs and
their owners. A choreographed set of moves is performed to
music by both dog and handler. Divisions include pre-novice,
novice, intermediate, advanced, and masters.
Obedience & Rally Obedience
In an obedience trial, a dog must perfectly execute a
predefined set of tasks when directed to do so by his
handler. The dog and handler perform the activities off
leash and in a very specific manner. There are several
levels of competition, ranging from basic commands like
Sit, Come, and Heel to scent discrimination and
directed retrieves over jumps.
Schutzhund
Schutzhund is a German word that literally means “protection
dog,” and this sport focuses on developing and demonstrating
a dog’s intelligence and usefulness. At a working trial,
Schutzhund measures a canine’s mental stability, endurance,
ability to scent, willingness to work, courage, and
trainability.
Weight Pulling
In this contest of strength, a dog pulls a loaded cart or
sled a short distance across grass, carpet, or snow. Many
different breeds participate in this sport in different
weight classes. Competing dogs wear specially constructed
harnesses designed to distribute the weight and minimize the
risk of injury.
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Ready!
Set! Go!! |
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Ready!.....Set!....Go!......These words are heard hundreds of times throughout a weekend
of flyball racing. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve
heard these words in the 9 years I’ve been
competing/training in the sport. What you probably won’t
believe is that even to this day, the word Ready can turn my
border collie Gunner “on” in .1 (1/10th) of a
second! The words drive him and most other flyball dogs
over the top!
Flyball, you’ve heard the word and possibly even seen it
once or twice on the big sport networks, but do you know
what all the hype is really about? What turns dogs and some
humans into flyball addicts?
 Flyball is a fast and exciting sport for dogs. It's an
outlet that lets dogs be dogs; running, barking and fetching balls. Your dog is doing the things he thrives to do
naturally. Flyball is about motivating your dog and keeping
your dog’s focus on you, the handler. The dog/handler relationship is molded from the first day of training,
encouraging your dog to work with you throughout many
obstacles and distractions in a positive way.
Keeping a dog’s focus throughout a flyball course is not
easy. A lot of handlers use a tug toy to keep the dog’s
focus and energy level up between heats. Tugs are one of
the most popular motivators, however other tools such as
balls, frisbees and treats are used depending on the
individual dog.
So, what is flyball? Flyball is basically a team relay race
for dogs. Two teams of four dogs compete against each other
over an obstacle course. The first dog sprints over four
hurdles (8-16 inches high, set to the height of the smallest
dog on the team) spaced 10 feet apart to a spring loaded box
which holds a tennis ball. The dog will hit the box with
his four paws, with a quick 180-degree turn the dog zooms
back over the hurdles, ball in mouth, crossing the start
line just as the second dog takes off, and so on. The first
team to complete the course cleanly wins the heat.
 Sounds
easy, until you factor in that these dogs are going
full-speed ahead, passing within inches of their teammates
when they trade off on the start line, and are doing it
amongst barking on the sidelines, another team of dogs just
10 feet away and their human teammates cheering them to the
finish. A lot of training, proofing and positive
reinforcement goes into training a flyball dog.
I believe from the human’s point of view, the love for the
sport comes from the relationship this sport helps you build
with your dog. For dogs, what can be better than running,
jumping, fetching and playing with their leader, their best
friend, their owners.
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How do
I determine if my dog is overweight? Obesity is one of the most common disorders seen in dogs
today. Before starting a new dog sport activity you should
determine whether your dog can safely maneuver through the
activity. There are many health risks with dogs being
overweight, diabetes, heart disease, joint damage and heat
intolerance, to name a few.
When I work with dogs in need of shedding a few pounds, I
am careful not to overwork them and take their needs into
consideration, as well as discuss the weight issue with the
owner.
This article is to help educate you on determining
whether your dog has a weight issue and if so, some
suggestions on shedding a few of those extra pounds.
Veterinarians often use a 9 point scoring
system to evaluate the body condition of pets. A point value
of 1 means the dog or cat is extremely thin to the point of
emaciation. A score of 9 means the pet is grossly
overweight. And like Goldilocks and the three bears, a score
of 5 is 'just right'. To determine body score, there are
several specific areas of the dog or cat we look at.
Remember these are guidelines. A greyhound with a score of 5
is still going to be thinner than a bulldog with the same
score.
To perform the rating, we first feel the pet's ribs.
We should be able to quite easily feel the ribs. There
should be a slight amount of fat over them, but each rib
should be distinct. If you can see the ribs, the pet is too
thin. If you can't feel them at all, the pet is very
overweight.
Second, check the area near the base of the tail.
There should be a slight fat covering over this area and it
should feel smooth. If the bones protrude, the pet is too
thin; if you can't feel any bones at all, the pet is very
overweight.
Third, feel other bony prominences on the pet's body
such as the spine, shoulder and hips. Again, you should
be able to feel a small amount of fat over these areas. If
these bones are easily felt or visible, the dog or cat is
too thin. If you can't feel the bones beneath the layer of
fat, the animal is obviously overweight.
Fourth, look at your pet from above. The animal
should have a definite waist behind the ribs. If the waist
is extreme, or again, bony prominences are visible, the
animal is too thin. If there is no waist, or worse yet, the
area between the ribs and hips is wider than the hips or
ribs, the cat or dog is grossly overweight.
Fifth, look at the pet from the side. Dogs and
cats should have an abdominal tuck, i.e., the area behind
the ribs should be smaller in diameter than the chest. This
can vary a lot between breeds. Irish setters and Greyhounds,
for instance, appear to have a much more distinct abdominal
tuck since they are so deep-chested. An animal who is too
thin will have a very severe abdominal tuck. Overweight
animals will have no abdominal tuck.
Things you can do to help your dog shed a few pounds:
- Provide excercise
- Choose the correct type and amount of food
- Limit the amount of treats
- Eliminate table scraps
- Treat any contributing health factors or diseases
If you
feel your dog is overweight, consult your veterinarian to
determine if there are any other medical problems before
starting the animal on a weight reduction program. Your
veterinarian can also suggest various diets, how fast your
pet should lose weight, etc.
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What is your dogs score?
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Very Thin
Body Score = 1 |
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Thin
Body Score = 3 |
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Ideal
Body Score = 5 |
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Overweight
Body Score = 7 |
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Obese
Body Score = 9 |
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Dog Park Etiquette |
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We are all guilty of taking our dogs to the dog park and
sitting around talking with friends as the dogs romp and
play. What a lot of people don't understand, is that dog
parks were formed as a place for dog owners to play with
their dogs in an enclosed area. Not just for human
socialization and letting our dogs run at large.
Unfortunately, those of us who do play with our dogs at dog
parks, are always on the look out for that rambunctious dog
or pack that seems to always ruin our game of fetch.
Another thing dog park frequenters don't recognize, is that
by taking your dog to a dog park, you are accepting a degree
of risk that your dog may be injured or may injure another
dog. Don’t be naïve and think that a dog park is a safe
place for your dog to be around other dogs. This may not
always be the case. Here
are some great tips to help make your daily romp to the dog
park a pleasant experience not only for you, but for your
dog.
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 If your
dog has never been around other dogs before – don’t go
to a dog park until he’s had a chance to be around other
dogs in other situations so you have a better idea of
how he reacts to other dogs.
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Supervise your dog. This is not the time for you to be
distracted talking with other owners or burying yourself
in a book. You should be monitoring your dog’s activities
to be sure she isn’t being a bully and other dogs are not
behaving badly toward her.
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Before
you take your dog into a dog park, spend a few minutes
watching the other dogs and how they are playing and
interacting with others. If the dogs seem to be too
rough in their play or are intimidating other dogs, come
back some other time.
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Introduce your dogs to other dogs gradually – allow your
dog to greet other dogs while he’s still in the separate
entry area available at some parks, or let your dogs
sniff around the fenced boundary.
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Be
careful entering a dog park gate. Other dogs tend to
crowd around to greet arriving dog. This jostling and
crowding can be quite intimidating to many dogs and may
result in a skirmish, or worse.
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Do not
take your small children or babies in strollers to a dog
park. Dogs and children can easily frighten one another
and bad things can happen to either of them in the blink
of an eye.
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Be
particularly watchful of small dogs around big dogs.
Don’t let big dogs frighten or threaten small dogs.
Aggression between big and small dogs is especially
likely to result in injuries to the small dog.
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Don’t
take any toys to the park your dog is not willing to
share.
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While
treats can be a great way to reward good behavior, be
careful about giving them to your dog when other dogs
are nearby. If your dog can’t tolerate other dogs
crowding around her wanting to share the goodies, treats
may not be a good idea. If you are attempting to give
treats to a crowd, require that all dogs sit and stay
while eating.
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Pick up
after your dog. You don’t want to step in another dog’s
poop anymore than someone else wants to step in your
dog’s mess.
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Avoid
grabbing your dog’s collar when your dog is playing or
interacting with other dogs. Such tugging can sometimes
trigger threats and aggression toward nearby dogs.
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Don’t
let other dogs threaten or scare your dog. If they won’t
leave, either remove your dog or ask the owner to
address his dog's issue. If your dog seems to be fearful
or is being “bullied” by other dogs, don’t let her stay,
thinking she will “get over it”, that she will learn to
“stand up for herself”. Chances are greater her behavior
will get worse.
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If your
dog is being a bully, being threatening or aggressive,
or just seems to be overly excited, remove him from the
park, either temporarily or permanently. It is not fair
to put other dogs at risk. Make the safety of other dogs
and people as high a priority as the safety of your own.
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Know
how to break up a dog fight. Direct Stop™, a harmless
but effective citronella spray or a small hand-held air
horn are your best bets. Don’t scream and yell at your
dog, try to pull her off by the collar, or get in the
middle of the fight as this only adds to the general
arousal and greatly increases either the dogs’ or your,
chances of injury.
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Be
knowledgeable about dog body postures, communication
signals and social behavior. You should be able to
recognize stress, tension, fear, play, threats and
aggression. Know the difference between play (which can
be very active and sound violent) and real threats. Know
when to intervene and when to stay out of an interaction
among dogs. If you feel uninformed about canine
behavior, learn more before taking your dog to a park.
Harm can come to your dog if you under-react as well as
over-react.
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Crate Training Your Dog |
The idea of
putting a dog in a crate or "cage" is often
viewed by some novice dog owners as cruel
and insensitive. A crate, however, if
introduced correctly, can be a dog's best
friend as well as an effective and vital
training tool. There are many benefits in
buying a crate for your new dog or puppy. At
the top of the list are his safety and your
peace of mind.
Dogs are den
animals by nature and the crate provides
your puppy with its personal den, its "safe
place". If you watch carefully, you will see
your dog settle down in a small, enclosed,
cramped area for a nap, perhaps under a
table or bed. Done properly, being confined
to a crate is not an unpleasant experience
for dogs. Some dogs may not welcome it at
first, but with proper persuasion, they
usually accept it. Crates are especially
useful in potty training and teaching your
new dog the rules of the house. Crates are
also a safe way of
transporting your dog in the
car, as well as a necessary part of getting
your dog into dog sports. If you properly
train your dog to use the crate, he'll think
of it as his safe place and will be happy to
spend time there when needed.
Selecting A
Crate
Crates may be
plastic (often called "flight kennels") or
collapsible, metal pens. They come in
different sizes and can be purchased at most
pet supply stores. Your dog's crate should
be just large enough for him to stand up and
turn around in. Some people prefer to get a
size larger than recommended to provide
their dogs with extra room to relax.
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Soft Sided Crate |
Wire Fold Down Crate |
Plastic Dog Crate |
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The Crate
Training Process
Crate
training can take days or weeks, depending
on your dog's age, temperament and past
experiences. It's important to keep two
things in mind while crate training. The
crate should always be associated with
something pleasant, and training should take
place in a series of small steps - don't go
too fast.
Introducing
Your Dog To The Crate
Put the crate
in an area of your house where the family
spends a lot of time, such as the family
room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the
crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and
talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make
sure the crate door is securely fastened
opened so it won't hit your dog and frighten
him.
To encourage
your dog to enter the crate, drop some small
food treats near it, then just inside the
door, and finally, all the way inside the
crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at
first, that's okay -- don't force him to
enter. Continue tossing treats into the
crate until your dog will walk calmly all
the way into the crate to get the food. If
he isn't interested in treats, try tossing a
favorite toy in the crate. This step may
take a few minutes or as long as several
days.
Feeding Your
Dog His Meals In The Crate
After
introducing your dog to the crate, begin
feeding him his regular meals in or near the
crate. This will create a pleasant
association with the crate. If your dog is
readily entering the crate, put the food
dish all the way at the back of the crate.
If your dog is still reluctant to enter the
crate, put the dish only as far inside as he
will readily go without becoming
anxious. Each time you feed him, place the
dish a little further back in the crate.
Once your dog is standing comfortably in the
crate to eat his meal, you can close the
door while he's eating. At first, open the
door as soon as he finishes his meal. With
each successive feeding, leave the door
closed a few minutes longer, until he's
staying in the crate for ten minutes or so
after eating. If he begins to whine to be
let out, you may have increased the length
of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving
him in the crate for a shorter time period.
Conditioning Your Dog To The Crate For
Longer Time Periods
After your dog is eating his regular meals
in the crate with no sign of
anxiety, you can confine him there for short
time periods while you're home. Call him
over to the crate and give him a treat. Give
him a command to enter such as, "kennel up."
Encourage him by pointing to the inside of
the crate with a treat in your hand. After
your dog enters the crate, praise him, give
him the treat and close the door. Sit
quietly near the crate for five to ten
minutes and then go into another room for a
few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a
short time, then let him out of the crate.
Repeat this process several times a day.
With each repetition, gradually increase the
length of time you leave him in the crate
and the length of time you're out of his
sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in
the crate for about 30 minutes with you out
of sight the majority of the time, you can
begin leaving him crated when you're gone
for short time periods and/or letting him
sleep there at night. This may take several
days or several weeks.
Part
A/Crating Your Dog When Left Alone
After your
dog is spending about 30 minutes in the
crate without becoming anxious,
you can begin leaving him crated for short
periods when you leave the house. Put him in
the crate using your regular command and a
treat. You'll want to vary at what point in
your "getting ready to leave" routine you
put your dog in the crate. Although he
shouldn't be crated for a long time before
you leave, you can crate him anywhere from
five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't
make your departures emotional and
prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your
dog briefly, give him a treat for entering
the crate and then leave quietly. When you
return home, don't reward your dog for
excited behavior by responding to him in an
excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low
key. Continue to crate your dog for short
periods from time to time when you're home
so he doesn't associate crating with being
left alone.
Crating Your Dog At Night
Put your dog in the crate
using your regular command and a treat.
Initially, it may be a good idea to put the
crate in your bedroom or nearby in a
hallway, especially if you have a puppy.
Puppies often need to go outside to
eliminate during the night, and you'll want
to be able to hear your puppy when he whines
to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should
initially be kept nearby so that crating
doesn't become associated with social
isolation. Once your dog is sleeping
comfortably through the night with his crate
near you, you can begin to gradually move it
to the location you prefer.
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